Make the most comfortable crib for your lil’ homie.
Reptiles can be divas. They can’t help it, that’s just how they’re made. Just like humans, they have certain needs and preferences to keep them healthy and happy. Creating the right habitat is the first step to making sure your scaly friend will thrive. Every reptile is different–from their species to their size to their age–and each will have its own specific needs. This guide will give you the basics and ensure your bases are covered when setting up your sweet reptile crib.
Types of Enclosures: Which One is Right for Your Pet?
Picking out the right terrarium can be overwhelming–there are many options. Make sure to research your particular type of reptile from credible sources before purchasing so you know if you’ll be able to meet its needs. Reptiles can grow quickly, which means you may need to purchase more than one enclosure within a matter of months. We’ve broken down the different types of enclosures and the kinds of reptiles that benefit most from each.
- Aquariums - Glass aquariums come in so many different sizes and shapes. Because they’re meant to house fish, they’re watertight and great for aquatic lizards, water snakes, and turtles. (However, setting up a paludarium, which contains both aquatic and terrestrial environments, is a whole other ballgame, which we won’t cover here.) Aquariums are just as great for terrestrial reptiles as well. The screen tops are easy to take on and off and provide sufficient airflow but can make it difficult to access your pet due to the lamps needing to be placed on top. The tops aren’t always secure either, which snakes love to take advantage of, and screens aren’t great for tropical species which need an enclosure that will contain humidity.
- Front Opening Terrariums - Symton makes and sells these types of enclosures in both 68-gallon and 120-gallon sizes. Ours are durable and lightweight, and make it easy to access your pet, feed them, and clean the enclosure without having to take the heat and UV lamps on and off. Our 60-gallon enclosure has a built-in key lock, so you won’t have to worry about waking up to something cold and scaly tickling your face in the middle of the night. These types of enclosures are great for bearded dragons, skinks, small monitor lizards, and more.
- Mesh Habitats - Mesh cages are screened from all sides and top, providing lots of fresh airflow. These types of enclosures are great for reptile species that are more versatile when it comes to temperature and humidity, including many desert species. Many arboreal species can be found housed in these enclosures because they’re often taller and skinnier than other built environments.
One Size Does Not Fit All
A general rule of claw is “the bigger the better,” but that’s not always the case. While adult reptiles usually thrive with more room, younger reptiles can feel stressed out with too much space around them. Larger environments are also more difficult to maintain consistent levels of humidity and temperature. Reptiles require precise conditions, and bigger vivariums make this harder to control. Sedentary animals vs. active ones will also dictate the size of your enclosure. The shape of enclosure is also important to consider. Reptiles who like to climb will need taller structures, while those that like to explore and run around will need more horizontal space.
Reptile Lamps: The Heat is On
Once you’ve chosen the right enclosure, you’ll need to supply adequate temperatures. Since reptiles are cold-blooded, they rely on outside sources to keep them warm. Just like terrarium sizes, heat temperatures differ per species. Most reptiles need a constant temperature of 70–85°F, with basking areas that can reach over 100°F. However, different species have different temperature preferences, so be sure to research your specific pet.
You’ll need to purchase the appropriate bulb (buy backups, they always burn out when you least expect it!) and lamp and place it at one end of the enclosure, on the top of the lid (avoid touching any plastic). The other side of the enclosure needs to be far away enough from the lamp to allow your pet to cool off. You will need a thermometer (either one that sticks to the side of the enclosure or a laser thermometer) to check the temp of the enclosure periodically.
Reptile Lamps: The Light Stuff, Baby
Diurnal (daytime active) reptiles require ultraviolet (UV) lighting to stay healthy. Some nocturnal snakes can survive without it but still benefit from a small amount of UV light. As always, be sure you research your species’s specific needs. UV light helps reptiles metabolize vitamin D and absorb calcium. UVB bulbs can be purchased from your local pet store and should be placed on top of the screen of the enclosure.
Creating UV, light, and heat gradients. Overlaid iso-irradiance charts visualize the UV index gradients. (A) Shade method using regular T8 5% UVB fluorescent tube and diffuse halogen lighting for leopard gecko (Eublepharis macularius) vivarium. (B) Sunbeam method using T5-HO 12% UVB fluorescent tube with aluminum reflector, twin halogen floodlamps, and non-UVB compact fluorescent lamps for Uromastyx yemenensis vivarium. (C) Shade method using 6% UVB compact fluorescent lamp and halogen reflector, both above mesh, for gargoyle gecko (Rhacodactylus auriculatus) vivarium. (D) Sunbeam method using 150W PAR38 flood UVB metal halide with PAR38 halogen floodlamp and non-UVB metal halide for chuckwalla (Sauromalus ater) vivarium. (A, C, and D, Courtesy of Frances M. Baines; B, courtesy of M.J. Versweyveld and Frances M. Baines.)
Diurnal reptiles need heat and light cycles that match the natural environment. Using an automated timer to plug your heat and UV lamps into makes it much easier to regulate the hours of ‘sun’ for your pet, rather than having to manually switch their lamps on and off every day. Twelve hours on and 12 hours off is typical, although you might want to adjust seasonally to mimic the length of daylight in winter and summer.
UV index estimates based on the Ferguson zones. The original 15 species of reptiles studied in their natural habitat in Jamaica and south and west United States were allocated to one of four zones according to their basking behavior and recorded UV range. Other species, such as the examples given, may also be assigned to these zones based upon their known basking behavior, and this also acts as a guide as to choice of shade or sunbeam methods of UV provision. (Modified from Baines et al., 2016.)
Reptile Decor: It’s What’s on the Inside That Counts
Your enclosure will need substrate, or material that lines the bottom of the terrarium. Depending on your pet’s species, this could mean ‘carpet’, wood chips, moss, sawdust, or soil. This will require replacement every so often to keep your pet’s home clean.
All diurnal reptiles will need a basking perch to rest on underneath the heat lamp, one that gives enough space beneath the bulb to allow for adequate temperatures for your individual species of animal. Pet stores will have lots of artificial rocks, tree limbs, and hammocks to choose from. Your pet will benefit from a hiding place, too, and pet stores carry caves and huts of all sizes.
Lastly, you’ll want to make your pet’s home feel as natural as possible, imitating the environment they’re originally from. Both natural and real plants, rocks, and even fake skulls can be used to decorate your vivarium. If you use real plants, make sure you research which varieties are safe for your particular animal. This can vary from species to species. Also be sure not to choose anything sharp that could harm your animal, such as jagged rocks or cacti. Don’t forget dishes to hold fresh water and food.
Home, Sweet Home
Now’s the best part: watching your magnificent reptile get used to their new abode. You might even want to send them a house warming package. We recommend a delicious edible arrangement.